A few weeks ago when I read the Vogue magazine of September I found this very dazzling look of Maja Weyhe, a well known fashion blogger from Dusseldorf.
After all these short gowns in summer I really liked to wear something different in autumn now – exactly the way this style of Maja looked like.
So started like I always do and searched through the internet to find more pictures of her look or maybe the original cloths in the online shop of Jil Sander. (If you want to see these pictures please check my pinterest board which I especially created for the look’s details.)
The major problem was to find the matching leather. Last winter I sewed a jacket for my son of tweed with leather patches and pockets. And I clearly remember how difficult it was to find some leather for this. In that case I didn’t want to buy a whole skin just for some pockets and little details, but for this leather skirt… On the other hand I knew how hard it was to sew the fake leather pockets for my son’s jacket with my machine. It constantly glue a bit on the metal – awful!
I rather thought about to take normal fabric for the skirt instead of leather -.
Then I saw a leather skirt in a Burda style magazine 8/2015 where the distributor was named: Fauck Berlin. I double-checked its website and asked for some examples. My first idea was to sew the skirt in mud or taupe or so, instead of this cognac/orange shade. But ordered the mud one as the orange ones looked very cheap – I really didn’t like them.
For the pattern of the blouse dress I took my Malìparmi dress (it is always good for copy purposes to sew something new… like my Guido project…) and simply lengthened it while slightly widen it a bit as well towards the seam. On the pictures of Maja I couldn’t really gather how wide her dress was. So I decided to not cut it too wide as this would not have suit the dress regarding its style. The downer seam is just 8 cm (in total) wider than the under arm width.
Though it is just a long blouse it took me the whole day to sew it as I wanted to spend a look of diligence for all the little details of a classic men’s business shirt – I even took one of my husband’s shirt to compare it to my blouse… AND
This was the first gown which was furnished with my own brand new label !!!!!!!!! (So proud) – ordered at Berliner Textil Etiketten.
This is why I wanted it to be sewed extremely perfect!
When it came to the skirt I thought about how to sew it properly – even in the night before – couldn’t almost sleep…?!? The fabric was delivered when I was still busy with the dress and I almost did not have the courage to check it -. Such an incredibly soft and tender material – the skin of a lamb. I mustn’t tell my daughter, she would kill me!
I was really nervous when I prepared the pattern. I looked at the pictures on my pinterest board on and on. Took a skirt I sewed this year in February or March short time after our London trip where I got my inspiration from. I could take the upper part of the skirt just shorten it a few centimeters so that it did not end at the waist but rather a bit more to the hips. You wouldn’t believe how often I tried it. Then I stuck all upper parts of the skirt together in a way they would be sewed, to get just one single piece. Look at the pictures to follow me: The waistband is without seams at the side.
Then I lengthened this piece to overlay it at the center front like the original one. This was a clear guesswork… I corrected it two times later…
For the downer part of the skirt I took the regular back part of my pattern like it was – thank god – at least one regular part! For the front – again watch the pictures to follow my expressions – I wanted to create a piece starting at the back of the skirt ending up more or less in front of the hips. So I took the original side part of the skirt, glue the center front to it and lengthened it like the upper part before as well. So that I finally received one large piece for the side part of the back and the side and center of the front plus the overlay – got it? Here is the picture so you may follow easier…
The sewing of the skirt was surprisingly easy – compared to how frightened I was in the night before.. You should neither stick needles in the leather nor should iron it – so the sewing felt a bit experimental. Everything that is important when sewing normal fabrics is forbidden with leather..?! And at the very end I cut a stripe of the center front as it was too dominant twice; of the ready sewed gown?! This was really unusual!