Sep-Jan

DIYs I – Sep 2015 until Jan 2016

  1. Kind of a Marni blouseIMG_5491

Pattern: The upper part of front and back is according to pattern N° 122, Burda style 10/2013. The sleeves of this blouse are very wide so that I changed it a bit to make the shoulders a bit more tight. You can try sleeves of another blouse and double-check if you can adjust the width with one or two pleats to fit.
The downer part is developed by myself. You decide how wide the seam of the blouse shall be and prepare a pattern piece accordingly. Please consider that you should cut a long slight bow to achieve this shape of the peplum.
The high neckline is just the downer collar of my Jil Sander dress (take a simple blouse and copy the downer collar, adjust the measurements if needed). To receive an upright neckline it is important to cut the collar straight, no bow at all.
The endings of the sleeves are also made by me. Just cut some larger pieces with a slight bow so that they fall  like in the picture.
Fabric: Ideally a jersey by Dorothee Schumacher, but you can take every soft fabrics with a little bit of weight, not too lightweight.
Similar one here.

2. Gucci inspired bloom blouseIMG_5096

Pattern: Pattern N° 103 of Burda style 9/2010
Fabric: Crashed silk slightly transparent bought at Haute Couture Stoffe Möller. You can take every thin and soft fabrics for it. I would avoid cotton and other fabrics eventually being too stiff.

3. All about retro dress

Pattern: Vogue vintage pattern V9052, original 1949 design.
Fabric: The fabric of my dress is an original Marni fabric of cotton stretch I once bought at Anita Pavani. But I would rather recommend to take a lightweight wool or another fabric being more soft than mine.

4. Jil Sander lookIMG_3802

Pattern: The pattern of this dress is gathered by me of a convenient blouse dress of my own. Alternatively you can take a very simple blouse without any tucks copy it and lengthen it as far as you like it. In my case I widened the dress just about 4cm in total at the seam line compared to the width beyond the arms, it is almost cut straight. The skirt is made by me by changing the pattern N°106B of a skirt of Burda style 9/2010. Please read the making of as well.
Fabric: The dress is made of an ordinary cotton fabric like they’re used for business shirt for men bought at Anita Pavani.
The skirt is made of leather by Fauck Berlin. You can order some samples to check the color and material in advance of your final order.

5. Guido jacket ready for fallIMG_9021

Pattern: Pattern N° 101 Burda style 2/2015 without any changes
Fabric: Wool/cashmere blend bought at Haute couture Stoffe Möller, please read my according fashion talk as well.

6. Guido pants ready for fallIMG_7451

Pattern: The pattern of this pants is made by me for the summer version in rose. Please read the detailed making of here.
Fabric: You can use every wool fabric without too much stiffness for these pants. Here you can read more details about my fabric purchase.

7. Beyond patience blouseIMG_8925

Pattern: This is just the upper part of my Jil Sander dresss – that’s all. If you want to stitch pearls on the collar please consider that you really need to have a lot of patience…
Fabric: Same fabric like the Jil Sander dress, e.g. cotton for business shirts are perfect for it.

8. Almost a lining blouseIMG_8654

Pattern: The front and back is prepared according to my rosewood silk dress (here is the tutorial), the collar and sleeves are taken from the pattern of the Jil Sander dress again. Please consider that you might need to adjust the neckline accordingly.
Fabric: Every silk or similar textures are possible for this blouse.

9. Oma Franziska blouse

Pattern: The pattern is the same I also used for the summer version of the Guido blouse in rose (please read the detailed making of here). I just departed it at the center front and changed it to sew buttons on it and adjusted the neckline by combining it with the collar of my yellow chakra support blouse (please find the tutorial here) and lengthened the sleeves to have ordinary endings.
Fabric: Please read my according fashion talk to get more details of my purchase here. Again every soft blouse fabrics are possible for it.

10. Development dressIMG_6307

Pattern: This is the same pattern like the one of my kind of a Marni blouse just departed the front for a button line and adding the upper part of the collar as well. The length of the dress can be adjusted by lengthening the peplum straight downwards.
Fabric: In my case the upper part is a washed silk by Dorothee Schumacher and the skirt part is a wool fabric by Heilemann and some leather details as well (the rest of the Jil Sander skirt). I recommend to take just one fabric for all. The discrepancies of two very different fabrics are sometimes hard to handle.

11. Formally known as curtain dressIMG_7748

Pattern: Unfortunately I threw the pattern away as it is simply not fitting properly. I guess it was a DKNY pattern but I am not definitely sure. I think it would be best to take the pattern of a blouse and cut it at the front to adjust the width and then the length. And for the width of the back just add more fabric to sew a large pleat into the middle or one under each shoulder.
Fabric: You see: Creativity never ends!!! Just stay flexible and think of Scarlet who also wore a dress made of a curtain…GWTWdress

12. Green fleece jacket

Pattern: Pattern N°2 Burda vintage “The fantastic Fifties” without any changes
Fabric: Please have a look on this list of Anita Pavani of her merino fabrics – I took the green one of them and sewed a soft jersey lining of a local shop inside.
Similar one here.

13. Mustard cashmere pants

Pattern: The pattern is my well established pattern of my short Guido pants. I just extrapolated the side line straight downwards to the seam. Please get more details of the cutting here as well.
Fabric: You can take a kind of wool twill or a lightweight cashmere or wool blend. Mine is by Haute Couture Stoffe Möller.
Similar to these or these ones.

14. Mustard cashmere skirtIMG_9921

Pattern: Original pattern N°5 Burda vintage “The fabulous Sixties”
Fabric: Rest of my mustard pants, cashmere/silk blend.

15. Last try lilac blouseIMG_0279

Pattern: This is exactly the pattern of the yellow chakra support blouse – here you are the tutorial.
Fabric: This is one of my recently bought fabrics from Schumacher: A stretching silk – I just took the inner matte side outside. You can take every very soft and silky fabrics for this blouse.
Similar one here.

16. Chain embellished sweaterIMG_0633

Pattern: Ideally this is pattern N°1 of the Burda vintage magazine “The fabulous Sixties”. But I skipped the endings of the sleeves and shortened the length of it to receive a sweater. The seam of the center front is turned outside to get a emphased line to attach the chain. The edges are all left open and just stitched one seam at about 5-8 mm next to the according edges to receive a kind of a finish.
Fabric: Mine is a very lightweight knit wool like sometimes used for coats as well – but much lighter and thinner ordered at Anita Pavani – here the same one in dark blue.

17. Pure blouseIMG_0999

Pattern: This is once more the original pattern of my Guido blouse in rose (please read the detailed making of here). I just changed the neckline to get the seam closer to the throat and lengthened the sleeves and added ordinary endings.
Fabric: This is one of my Schumacher treasuries, a stretching silk turned inside out to have this pure and elegant matte look – strictly love it….

18. Wool coatIMG_0841

Pattern: Basically this is the pattern of the Jil Sander dress combined with the shoulder part and sleeves of the green fleece jacket. I reduced the pattern and removed every playful details. In order to that I also just sewed a seam directly beside the open edges to not negatively influence the fall of the center part. The downer seam is done by experimenting: I attached the seam to shorten the coat with needles and instantly liked it so much that I departed the side seam and turned the fabric outside in before attaching it again. In order to that I get a proper side seam on the outside as well. The pockets are accomplished according to the way the “fake pockets” at all my pants are done – but this time as true pockets indeed.
Fabric: Mine is a very heavy knit fabric ordered at Tessuti -Stock. If you can access to a softer knit fabric, this would have been my original idea…

19. Marni experiment blouseIMG_1790Pattern: I developed the pattern by editing my Guido blouse and took the sleeves of the green sleeves jacket once more, but my recommendation rather is to take a classic blouse pattern or to copy a blouse of your own. Then decide where the folding part is supposed to be placed. I started a little bit next to the center back and continued to the center front. The length should slightly become longer until the middle (5cm more). Iron the folding part very exactly like you want the folds to be and fit it into the blouse. (This can take very long time…)
Fabric: The details and shape of the blouse require a fabric with some strength and hold not too soft or silky, so that the folds stay and come to its own. Mine is another one of my Schumacher fabrics.

20. Almost ordinary sweaterIMG_1395Pattern: This is just a copy of a knit sweater of my own – very easy…
Fabric: Any kind of fabrics you ideally would sew a sweater of like jersey or knit materials. Mine is an ordinary classic sweater jersey by Anita Pavani.

21. Silk beetle jacketIMG_1458Pattern: This is exactly the same pattern I used for my Green sleeves jacket (N°12).
Fabric: A gorgeous silk fabric – again by Schumacher… If you want the details of the jacket to be emphasized I would recommend to take light jacket fabrics like popelin or like in my case silk jacquard.

22. Dark blue sweaterIMG_1674Pattern: This is the same pattern like for the Chain embellished sweater (N°16). I just lengthened the sleeves by adding a part to its edges and I sewed a zip into its back neck because I wasn’t sure if the material would be stretching enough to slip into it.
Fabric: You can take any kind of sweater materials again. I took a wool walk by Anita Pavani which is very warm so that the sweater sometimes can replace a jacket.

23. Velvet ponchoIMG_1231Pattern: The pattern of this poncho is more or less the mix of my Guido blouse and the yellow chakra support blouse. Due to the fact that the result should be over-sized it was not so crucial – most important was the wide and easy shape. To give the collar a little hold I ironed a volumizing fleece  into it.
Fabric: This velvet is again by Schumacher being very soft and smooth. To give the poncho more hold and volume I took the rest of my Marni experiment blouse (N°19) fabric for its lining. You can take velvet or fur to sew such a poncho as well.

24. Wide leg pantsIMG_2488Pattern: Since I developed my pattern for a perfect shape of pants for me individually I strictly take this single pattern for every kind of pants. I adjust length and width and that’s it. I recommend to take pant of your own to copy the shape and end up with the perfect pattern for you as well.
Fabric: These pants are made of a very heavy and little stretching jersey fabric by – guess who?! – Schumacher 😉 You can take any fabrics for pants as well – I just love to change some fabrics’ purposes by using them for different garments as ideally they would have been supposed to …

25. New Year’s Eve dressIMG_3161Pattern: If you click on the picture you will land at the post where you can get more details of how I constructed the pattern. I took the pattern of a shift dress (Burda young 7056). To receive the asymmetric shape I first cut both side identically then changed one shoulder to the form of the shift dress again.
It is always difficult to sew such very slim dresses if you don’t have someone to adjust the width with some needles. This time I first sewed the zip at the back of the dress before I closed the side seams. In order to that I could follow my shape really perfectly indeed.
Fabric: Mine is a stretching very fin wool  fabric of Schumacher which I can strongly recommend. It is a light weight crepe wool fabric. You can take different fabrics as well but in my opinion this dress looks best with mat and very clean fabric like cool wool or so.

26. Baroque glittering pantsIMG_2263Please compare to N°24

27. Glittering pencil skirtIMG_0040Pattern: Burda vintage magazines of the fifties: pattern N°5 just the skirt
Fabric: Silk jacquard of Schumacher again…

28. Revision dressIMG_0336Pattern: Ideally I wanted to sew the pattern of a Burda style magazine 10/2013. But the fitting was so bad that I totally revised the dress. almost everything except the shoulders is different… In order to that I can’t definitely say which pattern this is, sorry. Maybe you should copy a knit sweater and a slim skirt and try to get it like this – but it’s a try.
Fabric: Please use stretching knit fabrics only and sew with a stretching stitch. My fabric is a fine Merino by Anita Pavani.

29. Bohemian blouseIMG_0208Pattern: In this case I can not tell you due to what pattern the blouse is sewed as I copied a blouse of my own and just sewed it exactly like the original one. It is a kind of tunic with open edges – please find more details by clicking on the picture.
Fabric: To get this bohemian look you can take a very fine and light wool chiffon – like mine by Etro from Anita Pavani.

30. Harris tweed dressIMG_0450Pattern: I have looked for a suiting pattern for months before I was sure to have the right one… (Please click on the picture to get the according information) I would recommend to take the pattern of a slim and feminine jacket and change it to a dress finally. Or maybe you are lucky and find the perfect pattern for such a dress in another sewing magazine – please tell me !!!
Most of this dress is cut by experience and by changing the original one to an individual one directly at my body…
Fabric: I am addicted to Harris Tweed! This noble material leads me to a better tailor indeed. So what can I suggest? – Try it and you will know…

31. Black Chloe inspired dressIMG_0823

Pattern: This is a modified pattern of my well established Guido Maria Kretschmer blouse I lengthened the sleeves, modified the v-neck and tightened the shape a little bit. For the skirt part I just simply cut two half circles and attached them at the upper part. But in the end I corrected the side seams a little bit to avoid sharp edges between the upper and the skirt part.
Fabric: The dress is made of two different fabrics both by Schumacher. The one of the upper part is a fine wool crepe and the skirt is made of a stretching heavy jersey. The dress has a lining inside.