Feb-now

DIYs II February until July 2016

1. Insanity coat
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Pattern: Burda style 9/2015 pattern N°105 without any changes
Fabric: You don’t need to cut all your sweaters like I did – it is also possible to sew the coat of traditional materials like cashmere or wool fabrics.
Here you are a very detailed “making of” of this coat.

2. Alternative jeans jacketIMG_1743

Pattern: Burda style 8/2015 pattern N°106B also without any changes.
Fabric: The original one in the magazine is made of cotton canvas but I wanted to sew it of denim. Therefore I took a really ordinary material without stretching materials or so and very heavy of G-star bought at Anita Pavani. Due to that feminine and retro inspired shape I chose suiting buttons in yellow.

3. Embellished fresco blouseIMG_1870

Pattern: This is a mix of my Guido blouse combined with the collar part of my yellow chakra support blouse with sleeves lengthened according my Gucci inspired bloom blouse (DIYs list N°2)
Fabric: The fabric is an original cotton flannel by Etro bought at Anita Pavani. The sequins and crystals are by Swarovski.

4. Playful Orange tree dressIMG_2101

Pattern: This is a modification of a modification…:-) I changed the pattern of the upper part of my black Chloe inspired dress (DIYs list N°31) by cutting in in the center front and back and added some more volume to the skirt. This dress is cut in one piece upper part and dress – means no extra skirt part is needed.
Fabric: This is again a flannel by Etro also bought at Anita Pavani.

5. “It’s a boy”- sweaterIMG_2218

Pattern: Before I cut all my knit sweaters to sew my insanity coat (N°1) I gathered some pattern of my most beloved ones… This one is the same I used for my almost ordinary sweater (DIYs I N°20) – just chose another solution for the seam and sleeves.
Fabric: The fabric is one of the light blue fabrics I ordered at Anita Pavani last summer for my orange light blue project. Those days I estimated it to be to hot for summer but now it is really perfect: A very soft, cozy and warm material.

6. Cover CoatIMG_3015

Pattern:  This oversize coat is made according to a pattern of Burda 10/2013 pattern No.103 (if you want to sew it as well please reduce the seam allowance a bit otherwise it will become too large – double-check the measurements of your paper version first. The position of the pockets is much too low. According my experience the correct position should be at least 8-10cm higher. Therefore shorten the upper front part and lengthen the downer front part accordingly.
Fabric: You can take almost every fabric for it. I sewed it of silk, cotton and this time of lightweight wool without any lining.

7. Too iconic dress blouseIMG_2676

Pattern: The pattern is my well established Guido blouse with some little revisions like length and sleeve endings.
Fabric: In opinion this shape of a blouse is made for silk. I sewed my pure blouse (DIYs I N°17) due to it and will sew my next blouse due to it as well. Even my Oma Franziska blouse (DIYs I N°9) is made according to it by changing the center front and adding a collar and normal sleeve endings.

8. Fashion sweaterIMG_2444

Pattern: Before I cut one of cashmere sweaters to sew my insanity coat I copied this pattern as I always loved this shape. So I cannot really provide you a pattern – but it is an oversize sweater with a longer back and splits at both sides. Ideally quite simple…
Fabric: I took a very ordinary sweater fabric of jersey, but I think knit fabrics or heavy jerseys would be good for it as well.

9. Lace pantsIMG_3274

Pattern: This is a mix of three different pants I already sewed or posses… I wanted the shape to be a little loose fit with slightly flared seams, not too long (ideally I wanted them to become a little shorter but due the weight of the lace the pants lengthen while wearing them…).
Fabric: Lace pants….so I recommend to take lace to sew lace pants 🙂
The only question is what kind of lace you prefer. Normally I am no lace type, the only kind of laces I like is this (in German called Spachtelspitze) or the one I used for my lace dress (called Gimpenspitze). I guess to take more tender laces don’t suit the style of the pants so well – but it is up to your preferences 🙂

10. Mauve wet shimmering silk blouseIMG_3118

Pattern: Also for this blouse I took my well established pattern I once drafted to sew my Guido blouse. I am so happy with this shape and it fits so well that I just make some small changes to shift the result either in this or in that direction – that’s all.
Fabric: If you follow me since a certain while you will easily have noticed I love silk…though it is challenging to sew it every single time. For this blouse I used a stretch silk – absolutely gorgeous to wear it – which is a little bit easier to work with than non stretching silk, but anyhow, this is really for more advanced tailors. Alternatively you could use viscose which is much easier to handle than silk or polyester.

11. Jacket of 1962IMG_3432

Pattern: Here I used one of the patterns of my original sewing magazines of the sixties: The magazine is called Neuer Schnitt (sorry, just in German) from Oct.1962 and the patttern number is S 8506IMAG1988 IMAG1986 IMAG1987

Please make sure that to take your measures first before you cut a pattern as the sizes have changed a lot since then…
Fabric: For such a jacket/coat every fabric with a little stand is perfect for it. I took a kind of corduroy though it reminds me of a “Alcantara ” as it has the characteristics of suede leather with its heavy fall.

12. Cover coatIMG_2913

Pattern: Though I took a ready to use pattern by Burda to sew this coat I am not sure if I should recommend it to you. The shape is so huge and the pockets are so low that there are some revisions necessary in advance to come to a good result. so please keep that in mind when you use pattern 103 of Burda style 10/2013 (Germany)
Fabric: I sewed this coat in two different ways before I accomplished this one. One of cotton, one of silk and this one of knit wool – conclusion: Everything is possible!

13. Slightly couture pants

IMG_4296Pattern: These pants are a blend of three different pants… I took my Guido pants and two convenient pants to get the perfect fitting. So unfortunately I cannot tell you exactly what pattern it is made of.
Fabric: This is one of Schumacher treasuries which is a glittering silk jacquard – I strictly adore it. I would recommend to take fabrics being a little stiff like silk jacquard or bourette silk.

14. Very me blouse

IMG_4661Pattern: This is a slightly changed version of my Guido blouse. I simply lengthened the sleeves while using a particular technique to get this bell shape and changed the upper front part. I wanted to try this version of a button line with collar like it is often used for t-shirts as well.
Fabric: Here I used no silk! Instead this is a printed viscose. Much easier to work with and very easy to wear 🙂

15. Skirt in a rush

IMG_3536Pattern: This is a freestyle gown indeed! I took my making me dancing dress and cut it at that length I wanted the skirt to be. Then I folded its upper part as long as it fit perfectly around my hips, sewed a zip in it – done!
Fabric: In my case it is a very heavy silk with an amazing fall – just love it 🙂

16. Wrap cardigan

IMG_3325Pattern: This is very simply made of the pattern for my wrap dress I sewed in summer 2015 according to an original one by DvF. I just cut it where I wanted the length to be. Alternatively I found a pattern of a wrap dress In Burda style 6/2011 pattern N°139, a designer pattern by Blumarine.
Fabric: Mine is a woolen knit fabric which is simply perfect for it. Potentially jersey is also okay but I would recommend to choose a pretty strong and heavy version.

17. Basic shirts

IMG_5148Pattern: Here I used a very easy pattern by Burda style 8/2015 pattern N°120.
Fabric: Ideally the pattern is for a blouse so you can also use silk or viscose. Butt for a shirt like mine I would recommend to use stretch fabrics or light weight knit fabrics. Your fantasies can easily decide what and how you should embellish the shirt. Just let yourself be inspired by my few suggestions.

18. Easy pants

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Pattern: This is once more a blend of a few different patterns I already used like the one of my lace pants (N°9) combined with a pattern of Burda style 9/2015 model 114. The goal was to mimic this pants by Totême
Fabric: I used a stretch wool blend I bought at Schumacher’s friends’ boutique. For such tight pants it is always best to use stretch fabrics; it strictly adds more comfort when wearing them.

19. Black lurex wrap dress

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Pattern: Here I used a ready-to use pattern by Ann Molinari once being part of a Burda style magazine 6/2011 Mod. 139
But I must say I am not very satisfied with its fitting compared to the one by DvF the sleeves are really nice and tight but the rest always is about to shift up… – obviously I need to develop one by myself some day.
Fabric: Every bi-stretching fabrics are possible.

20. Creamy white collection: Dress #1IMG_6137

Pattern: You won’t believe but to sew this dress I simply used the pattern of my basic shirts (N°17 on this list). I liked the fitting of the shoulder and those little sleeves (I tightened just a little bit). So I just lengthened it almost directly in a line from the point under the arm to the seam, just added 1cm (which wouldn’t have been necessary) on the hips. The center part is a classic Polo version (not sure if this is the same meaning in English) and the pockets are simple squares.
Fabric: Ideally such a dress is made of a bouclé or cotton tweed. But I used this wafer cotton as it has a similar appearance. First I ironed a very thin and soft sewing fleece inside but removed it later as it was too hot and made the dress not really comfortable anymore. I did it to avoid the fabric to stretch too much when I sit – now I have to accept that it does without the fleece….
PS: I found a pattern being very close to mine in Burda Style, issue 2/ 2013, pattern N°118 , shown on instylequeen

21. Creamy white collection: Sweater and shorts

IMG_6274Pattern: The pattern for the sweater is the one I used for my it’s a boy sweater (N°5 on this list). Like at the dress #1, I used the same techniques for the center front added one hidden pocket and one being like a little bag. The collar gets its stand with some strong sewing fleeces and by lengthening the center part to the highest edge of the collar.
The shorts are made due to a ready to use pattern by Burda style
Fabric: Though I always use nature fabrics, in this case I used this polyester crepe as it does not crinkle and is not too much transparent but with that particular fall.

22. Creamy white collection: Dress #2

IMG_6359Pattern: For the upper part I used the pattern of my Gucci inspired bloom blouse (DIYs I N°2), the skirt is done without one just by measurement. The pleats are 5 cm wide and 3 cm deep. The length of the skirt is 32 cm.
Fabric: This is a cotton satin combined with a lurex jersey (the grey fabric). I am quite surprised how well this went… The seam is supported by a grey satin ribbon (inside) to add some stiffness to the open edges of the jersey.

23. Embroidered silk shortsIMG_6624

Pattern: Exactly the same like the one I used for the shorts N°21
Fabric: As you see, be creative! I used a silk fabric  but every other fabrics are possible for shorts depending on the look you want to create.

24. Playful sporty topIMG_7617

Pattern: The upper part ending up almost at the waistline is cut due to the pattern of the dress of my orange light blue project and the peplum is made by measure – just as long and as wide as the rest of my fabric allowed
Fabric: I would only recommend to use jerseys for this top

25. Ports1961 creation/ dress #3 and shorts #2 of the creamy white collectionIMG_7143

Pattern:
Dress: I used this pattern by Burda and changed it regarding the length and the splits on both sides. Therefore it is not only necessary to leave the seams open but rather to sew a slight curve (have a look at this post to gather it more clearly). The collar is made very easily by adding a straight piece of fabric at the upper edges of he neck.
Shorts: This is also a pattern by Burda style 6/2011 pattern N°111 I used several times before.
Fabric: The fabric should have a certain weight and fall to look good for this creation. I took a lightweight cool wool – completely with a silk lining inside! and I think this is really great for this.

26. Gucci inspired skirtIMG_7534

Pattern: This is just the skirt part of a dress of Burda vintage “The legendary sixties” dress 7 “Jane”. Really quite simple. I just added this ribbons and stitching at the hem line – please see the details here.
Fabric: This is a special silk fabric I bought at Schumacher’s friends’ boutique. I liked it because it comes quite close to the original one by Gucci. The pearls and little things for the embellishment can be bought at DIY handicraft shops or in some sewing shops as well. Just be sure that the pearls you buy do have a whole that is wide enough for your needle…

27. Blouse on a second tryIMG_7945

Pattern: Again I used a convenient pattern by Burda style I wanted to work with since many years… It was in Burda style 9/2010 pattern N°109C, really very beautiful shape with this particular – in German called – plastron at its center front. But I shortened the sleeves to have just 3/4 length.
Fabric: Honestly it should be silk in any way…

28. Big tulip pantsIMG_7663

Please compare with my lace pants N°9

29. Victoria Beckham inspired dressIMG_0960

Pattern: Originally sewed due to Vogue pattern V1421
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Fabric: I took a mid weight cupro but rather would suggest to take fabrics with a little stand. The sewing itself was pretty easy and everything came together very naturally.

30 Cocktail dress
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Pattern: Originally sewed to a pattern by Vogue V1484

Fabrics: I used silk fabrics: The golden one is a jacquard, the black one a satin and the animal printed one a chiffon.
The fabric for the dress should be little stiff so that the skirt becomes nice and flared. The fabric for the upper part is supposed to be transparent, very light weight and tender.